A couple of months ago I started making soap. After tons of reading and quite a bit of confusion, I finally figured out the basics and made my first batch of ‘lye soap’, just like Great-Grandma used to make. It turned out great! I then decided to make some shampoo bars.

This is the lye I used. I don’t say ‘lye’ or even NaOH. I bought it at Home Hardware. Thankfully, there was an older (70+) man working at the store that day and he knew just what I needed. It was about $5.

FYI: Lye (strong alkaline) is necessary to make soap (process is nearly 3000 years old). However, after the chemical reaction between the fat and the lye (saponification) the lye (strong alkaline)is gone and what you have left is SOAP! Yes!

You WON’T be washing in LYE … I promise!

100% natural soap!

Lye and Water + Fat = Soap

Different types of fats can be used in the soap making process. Lard, Vegetable shortening, Vegetable Oil, Coconut oil, Castor Oil, Jojoba oil, Olive Oil … The list is endless.

After looking at many recipes (use Google), I decided I wanted my shampoo bars to consist of Olive Oil, Coconut Oil (good for dry hair) and Castor Oil (lots of suds)!

I decided for a 2:1:1 ratio for the oils. You can make up any combination you want!

My recipe:

8 oz Olive Oil
4 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Castor Oil

I carefully measured out these ingredients using a scale and put them in a small pot suitable for heating on the stove.

I then figured out how much lye and water to use, by using this soap making calculator. I find it easier to measure out your oils and then calculate exactly how much lye & water to use.

After putting the above amounts into the calculator, it is recommended that I use (based on 6% excess fats – good for shampoo):

2.19 oz lye
4 – 6 oz water

Basic Soap-making Instructions:

* While wearing safety goggles and neoprene gloves, combine solid lye and liquid, stir well. Set aside and allow to cool (100° F to 125° F). This is best done outside while you are standing upwind.

* Combine oils and heat gently. Once the fats and oils are melted allow the temperature to drop to 100° F to 125° F.

* Combine lye solution and melted oils. Be careful not to splash while combining the mixtures. Stir until the mixture traces. If tracing takes more than 15 minutes, which it often does, stir for the first 15 minutes, then stir for 5 minutes at 15 minute intervals. Tracing looks like a slightly thickened custard, not instant pudding but a cooked custard. It will support a drop, or your stir marks for several seconds. Once tracing occurs…

NOTE: I use a stick blender and this recipe reached trace in under 5 minutes.

What is trace?: Trace is when the soap mixture reaches a consistency similar to pudding. When you lift your spoon/blender and dribble the soap on itself, the trail of soap leaves a trace of itself before blending back in. Definition of trace.

* Add Essential Oils for scent. In this case I added 1 tsp of Tea tree Oil and 1 tsp of Peppermint oil.

* Pour raw soap into your prepared molds. After a few days the soap can be turned out of the mold. If the soap is very soft, allow it to cure for a few days to firm the outside.

NOTE: I used a clean milk carton (waxed paper type not plastic bottle). 1 litre size in Canada or 32 oz in the USA.

* Cut soap into bars and set the bars out to cure and dry. This will allow the bar to firm and finish saponification. Place the bars on something that will allow them to breathe.

Read this article on Soap Making Safety, BEFORE you get started.

This shampoo turned out wonderful. Luxurious lather and it leaves my hair soft and silky. NO tangles. I smells nice too. In addition we use it as regular body soap too. It’s nice not to have all of those plastic bottles in the shower.

Enjoy!

MK xo

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